CLIMAtronic™/GPIO v2.10 Build Instructions

These are the build instructions for the v2.10 GPIO board from Bowling and Grippo when using it with the VW CLIMAtronic™ HVAC controller. 3B1 907 044 B

No warranty - use at your own risk - Dont Try This at Home - for offroad use only - may burn your house down and/or damage the planet etc.

You will need the following
GPIO Kit http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...kit-p-403.html
Parts Kit http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...ift-p-404.html
The CLIMAtronic head
and a few other bits from wherever you can find them - ebay has the TA8050P listed
BC327 PNP transistors x 2
IRF9540N P-channel Mosfet x 1
TA8050P H Bridge 1.5A driver x 1
10uf electrolytic cap x 1

Current Version of the Software (right click and save as)

In these instructions, we will build one type of circuit at a time. We start with the base circuits (power, CAN and serial communications circuits), then move onto the input/output circuits: GPOx, VBx, PWMx, GPIx, EGTx, and finally the firmware.

HVAC Function	Processor Port	GPIO Circuit	GPIO AMP Connector Pin
ac compressor	PE4	12v - VB4in - VB3out - compressor	23  + 35
Keys	PM2	Climatronic Display
Defrost solenoid	PT1	PWM4	34
Foot solenoid	PT2	PWM3	33
Water solenoid	PT3	PWM2	32
LCD/Keys	PM4	Climatronic Display
LCD/Keys	PM3	Climatronic Display
LCD/Keys	PM5	Climatronic Display
mix servo	PB4	TA8050P on EGT1	22
Antenna	PE0	EGT2	4 not used here
Acc Sense	ADO	GPI5	27 not used here
Exterior Temp	AD1	GPI2	6
Key Sense	AD3	Climatronic Display
Relay Def/Fan Full	PT6	GPO3  +12v out	8
Key Sense	AD6	Climatronic Display
Face  Solenoid	PT0	VB1 High Current PWM (cruise?)	11
	AD2	GPI3 Mix Servo Position	30
Inside Temp	AD7	GPI4 and Climatronic Display
PWM Fan Control	PT4	PWM1	31
mix servo	PT7	TA8050P on EGT1	21
Recirc Solenoid	PA0	VB2	12
Key Sense	AD5	Climatronic Display
Key Sense	AD4	Climatronic Display
Ign Sense	PE1	GPI1	5 join with pin1
Relay Fan Primary	PT5	GPO1  +12v out	10
Climatronic Illum		PWM or 100R ground via EGT4	26
Body CAN High	Expansion	EGT1 U814 via adapt9S12XE CAN1	24
Body CAN Low	Expansion	VR2 R60 via adapt9S12XE CAN1	15
Drive CAN High		GPIO & R82H via adapt9S12XE CAN0	13
Drive CAN Low		GPIO & R82L via adapt9S12XE CAN0	16

When you purchase a MegaShift™/GPIO kit, the components typically arrive individually packed, with part numbers. As a result, while you should verify that you have received all you ordered, it is not necessary to identify each item by color, markings, etc.

If you have questions about the specification or appearance of any item, check the part number (listed in {} brackets here) at the Digi-Key site (http://www.digikey.com/) first. Entering the part number in their search engine will give you access to both the catalog information and the data sheet from the manufacturer.

To assemble any of these electronic kits, you will need a soldering iron, some solder, and a few other useful accessories. A 15 watt pencil iron will work fine, however a 25 watt iron heats up faster. Get some small solder. For example, you can use 0.75mm resin solder (~0.030") which really helps to put just the right amount of solder in just the right places. You do not need to use silver solder for MegaSquirt. Make sure to let the soldering iron get hot before using it. A hotter tip makes for quicker cleaner joints, and less heat in the components, because the temperature of the lead reaches the melting point of the solder before the component has had much time to heat up (though letting the iron heat for a while also tends to shorten the useful life of the tip). Let it sit 'powered-up' for 10-15 minutes before trying to use it. The solder should melt nearly instantly if touched to the tip.

Never try to paste solder on a joint using excess solder on the tip. Keep the tip clean, and heat the joint (try to get the tip right at the joint between the lead and the PCB) and hold the solder against the other side of the joint until it starts to melt. Feed in just enough solder to get a bit of a "cone" around the joint, and you are done.

Get a braided copper solder wick as well - you will be glad you did! It is very useful for removing components and cleaning up excess solder. Before plugging in your soldering iron, be sure you read and understand the assembly instructions that follow.

(Note that there is also an excellent tutorial for the assembly of general electronic kits here: www.mtechnologies.com/building/atoz.htm.)

Note: The semiconductor components in MegaShift™/GPIO are sensitive to electrostatic discharge {ESD). To reduce the potential for damage from ESD, some care is needed. Interestingly, you cannot even feel an ESD shock unless the voltage exceeds 3,000 volts, far more than enough to destroy some of the MegaShift™/GPIO components. ESD events do not always destroy an electronic component immediately on the first occurrence, making the eventual failure of your MegaShift™/GPIO very difficult to troubleshoot. Where possible, make use of anti-static controls and material handling techniques, i.e., wrist-band grounding straps, anti-static foam and anti-static bags, grounded workbenches, anti-static mats, etc. Avoid handling semiconductor components more than necessary. If you are not wearing a wrist-band grounding strap, discharge yourself by touching grounded metal before handling ICs and equipment. This is especially important in the winter after taking off or putting on any garments, for example, sweaters and coats. The material of your clothing also has an effect, as materials like silk and some artificial fibers produce a lot of "static electricity". Most commercial carpets contain a high percentage of artificial fibers, which are prone to producing static. Where possible, try to keep the room humidity at 50% or higher to reduce static problems, or use a product such as "Static Guard".

MegaShift™/GPIO; uses a number of components. These components are installed on the silkscreen side of the PCB, and in most case it will be easiest to solder them from the other side of the board. Electrically, the soldering works fine from either side, but as you get more components on the board, it gets harder to solder on the components side, forcing you to use the other side for soldering. There are three ways you can be sure of putting the right components in the right places with the right orientation. Most electronic parts have a standardized scheme for identification.

There are a large number of cryptic designations in building a MegaShift™/GPIO board. Many of these have the form of a capital letter followed by a one or two digit number. These indicate components that are installed on the MegaShift™/GPIO main board (or stim, etc.) and are specific to each PCB. So R9 means resistor (R) number 9. Note that the main board may have an R9, and the stim might too, but they are different. Here are some examples:

• D1 = Diode 1,
• C1 = Capacitor 1,
• R1 = Resistor 1,
• U1 = IC (chip) 1,
• L1 = Inductor 1,
• F1 = Fuse 1,
• P1 = Connector 1,
• Q1 (sometimes T1) = Transistor 1,
• J1 or JP1 = jumper (can be one of:
  • a snipped off lead from a resistor (for jumpering adjacent holes),
  • a header and jumper (for easily removable jumpers), or
  • an insulated wire (for jumpering holes that are not immediately adjacent).

A. Base circuits:

• Remove excess PCB material: The board is shipped with surplus PCB material on each edge that is about ¼ inch (6mm) wide. You can leave this material on if you are using a custom enclosure, it might make for easier mounting is some situations. However, in most cases, this material must be removed. You do this by using a pair of pliers to flex the excess material along each edge until is snaps off.
• PCB/case: Check the fit of the GPIO printed circuit board in the case. It goes into the next to last slots (nearest the case bottom). Do not put the GPIO PCB into the bottom grove, the bottom of this groove is wide enough that it may short out some circuits. Be sure to start it as close to 'square' as possible, otherwise it will bind. The PCB should slide into the case fairly easily, but be held snugly. If the PCB doesn't fit, or is too tight, you have to narrow the board slightly. you do this with a coarse file. Run it along the heat sink edge of the board 10-20 times, then recheck the fit. Repeat as necessary until the board fits properly in the PCB. Then blow the PCB clean with compressed air.

  Note that if you wish to mount the GPIO PCB in a non-standard case, three mounting holes are provided:

  

• Heat sink: Prepare the heat sink.
  

• Install and solder the voltage regulator U1 {LM2937ET-5.0-ND}. This is a TO-220 size component (three pins sticking out of a black case, with a tab and mounting hole on the opposite edge) located in the corner of the board furthest from where the 35 position Ampseal connector will be installed, nearest the heat sink.
  

  It has its own location among the SMD components in that corner of the board. You have to bend the leads to a 90° angle so the regulator can site flat against the board, then solder it and screw it the board with a #4-40 nylon bolt and nut (with heat transfer compound (aka. 'heat sink grease') between the regulator and board). You do not need a separate heat sink for the voltage regulator (shown in the diagram below), the voltage regulator can be mounted directly to the PCB (with heat sink compound), as long as you are not using the 5Vref supply for powering off-board accessory circuits.

  

• CAN termination resistor: You will install this 120 Ohm, 1/4 Watt resistor (R82) if you have two CAN devices in your network (i.e. the GPIO board and MS-II). If you have more than two devices in the network, you only install the resistor in the devices at the ends of the CAN network. If required, install and solder the 120 Ohm, ¼ Watt resistor {brown-red-brown, 120QBK-ND} in R82. This is located in the corner of the PCB furthest from the Ampseal connector and heat sink. Space the CAN termination resistor up off the board by approximately 1/4" to 1/2" (6mm to 12mm), and make sure the lead closest the edge will not contact the case when the PCB is installed in the enclosure. If your board is not at the end of the CAN chain, DO NOT jumper this resistor location, leave it empty.
  

• Ampseal
  1. Connector: The connector should be soldered to the PCB. Be sure it snaps into place in the PCB, then solder each of the 35 pins from the underside of the board. Take your time and be methodical, as missing or poorly soldering one or more pins can cause problems that are very hard to troubleshoot later.
  2. Pigtail: The best instructions for assembling the harness pigtail are Tyco's own instructions, get the PDF file here: Ammpseal 35 pigtail assembly instructions

• Serial Communications:

  You have a choice here. You can bring the serial communications out a serial jack (with a 2.5mm mini stereo jack, which is convenient) or you can bring the serial communications out the Ampseal connector (which offers the possibility of weather sealing).

  1. Ampseal Serial:
     • Rx: Jumper from the via marked "Rx" near the bootloader jumper to the via marked "Rx" near the Ampseal connectors rear edge with 20-24 gauge insulated wire. This will bring Rx out on Ampseal pin 21.
     • Tx: Jumper from the via marked "Tx" near the bootloader jumper to the via marked "Tx" near the Ampseal connectors rear edge with 20-24 gauge insulated wire. This will bring Tx out on Ampseal pin 22.
     • Gnd: Use one of the Ampseal pins 17 to 20 as a ground.
     • You can devise your own serial cable, the illustrations below might help.

  2. Serial Jack/Cable
     1. Cable:(same as LC-1/MicroSquirt cable): If you don't already have a serial cable (from an MicroSquirt on Innovate LC-1 wide band EGO controller)you will need to make one. To do this, solder the three wires of the 2.5mm stereo plug cable {CP-254CS-ND} to the DB9 connector {4109FER-ND} as shown below (cut the yellow wire so it can't short against the DB9 connector), then cover the connection with the DB9 hood {976-09RPE-ND}.
        
        

     2. Serial Jack: Solder the serial jack onto the PCB (near the center of the edge of the PCB that is furthest from the Ampseal connector. The jack is available from Mouser as KC-300416 (161-2502), but it is not currently available from Digi-Key.

• Bootloader header {A26520-40-ND - cut to suit}: The Boot Header {JP5) on the board near the serial jack is used to reprogram the CPU in MegaShift™ processor (not the tuning parameters, but the actually code that uses the tuning parameters). Install the 2-position header, but leave it open (do not bridge the pins with a jumper), though you can leave a jumper (S9000-ND) hanging on just one pin as a handy storage location.

  Depending on what you want from your MegaShift™ controller, though, you may end up using the boot header to eventually to load code. To load new code, you put jumper on the two pins on JP5 with no power applied to the board, and once the jumper is in place apply power to the board and use the downloader program.

  Some people have put a momentary switch (normally open - NO) across the boot header, and place the switch so they can go into bootloader mode simply by pressing this switch while powering up, without opening the case. (If you do this, be sure it can't be pressed accidentally.)

• BDM (Background Debug Module) header: This 3x2 header is used to load the serial monitor program to the processor (to act as a bootloader for adding new code version), as well as for looking at the state of code running on the processor when developing new code (in conjunction with a BDM cable, etc.). This is located in the corner of the PCB furthest from the Ampseal connector and heat sink, near the CAN termination resistor (R82) you installed earlier. If you wish to install this header, solder it into position.
  

25x2 Header {WM8135-ND, S9000-ND}:

you must use insulated wire (~20-22 gauge) to jumper:

• AD1 to GPI2 at 25x2 header, and
• PT0 to VB1 at 25x2 header.
• PT5 to GPO1 at 25x2 header.
• PT6 to GPO3 at 25x2 header.

you could use cut leads wire (~20-22 gauge) to jumper:

• PE4 to VB3 at 25x2 header.
• PE1 to GPI1 at 25x2 header.
• AD7 to GPI4 at 25x2 header.
• PT1 to PWM4
• PT2 to PWM3
• PT3 to PWM2
• PT4 to PWM1
• PA0 to VB2 at 25x2 header.

Double check that you have jumpered the correct locations.

Note that on the V2.00 GPIO boards ONLY, NOT the V2.10 boards, there are errors on the silkscreen labeling at the 25x2 header, this was corrected on V2.10 boards. The actual circuit connections are the same on both boards, they are just labeled correctly on V2.10+ boards. See this link for more information.

These circuits are arranged in a left-right line just above the center of the board.

1. Install the processor pin resistors (1.0K Ohm, 1/8 Watt) in R13, R15, R17 {brown-black-red, 1.0KEBK-ND}.

    

2. NOTE these two are installed as per photo below **********Install and solder the two small PNP BC327 transistors in Q9, Q10.

   Q9 pin1 where 3 should be pin2 in 2 and pin3 in the cpu side of D19

   Q10 pin1 where 3 should be pin2 in 2 and pin3 in the cpu side of D20

   The pin spacing is very tight on these transistors, be careful not to bridge the pins with solder (use a braided copper wick to remove any excess, if necessary).

   Install and solder the remaining two small NPN transistors normally {ZTX450-ND, do not confuse with the 2N3904 transistors that look very similar} in Q14, Q16. These transistors have one flat side with square corners, and one side with rounded corners (this side is marked "ZTX 450"); the flat side with the square corners faces the Ampseal end of the PCB. The pin spacing is very tight on these transistors, be careful not to bridge the pins with solder (use a braided copper wick to remove any excess, if necessary).

    

3. Install and solder jumper insulated wire (~20-22 gauge) wire in R14 and R16
4. Install and solder jumper insulated wire (~20-22 gauge) wire from the heatsink side of R59 to the cpu end of R13
5. Install and solder jumper insulated wire (~20-22 gauge) wire from the heatsink side of R60 to the cpu end of R15
6. Install and solder 330R resistor from the ampseal side of R13 to the end of R43 furthest from the heat sink
7. Install and solder 330R resistor from the ampseal side of R15 to the end of R47 furthest from the heat sink
8. Install and solder the diodes {1N4001DICT-ND} in D15, D16. The banded end goes towards the cpu, as shown on the silkscreen.

    

These seven circuits are located on/beside the heat sink, nearest the Ampseal connector.

1. Install and solder six large TO-220 size NPN transistors {TIP120-ND} in Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6 with insulators {4724K-ND} on the heat sink in positions Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6. These are numbered alongside the 3 holes in the PCB for each transistor. You have to bend each transistor's leads to a 90° angle so the transistor can site flat against the insulator/heat sink. Cut the corners off the mica (nearest the three holes for the TIP120 pins) so that it clears the resistor you will install in the next step. Slide the mica over the TIP120's three pins and place it one the board. Then and screw the TIP 120 to the board with a #4-40 steel bolt, insulator washer (be sure the stepped side is against the TIP120 tab), lock washer and nut (with heat sink compound between the transistor and heat sink and heat sink and board). You may want to put a dab of fingernail polish or something similar on the screw/nut interface to help prevent them backing off due to vibration. Alternately, you can use a nylon bolt without a insulating washer. The nut should be on the top side, to provide clearance in the case. Solder the TIP120 pins from the bottom side of the board.
   

   Check the resistance from the TIP120 tab to the heat sink. It should be greater than about 40K Ohms (40000 Ohms), usually higher at this stage. If it is not greater than ~40K Ohms, the mica is not insulating, and you need to find out why (common causes are burrs on the heat sink, missing mica insulators, or missing insulating washers).

   Install and solder ONE large TO-220 size P-Channel HEXFET transistor {IRF9540N} in Q7 with insulators {4724K-ND} on the heat sink in positions Q7. These are numbered alongside the 3 holes in the PCB for each transistor. You have to bend each transistor's leads to a 90° angle so the transistor can site flat against the insulator/heat sink PIN3 GETS BENT OUT TO THE SIDE TO CONNECT WITH PIN2 OF Q8 ON VB4. Cut the corners off the mica (nearest the three holes for the TIP120 pins) so that it clears the resistor you will install in the next step. Slide the mica over the TIP120's three pins and place it one the board. Then and screw the TIP 120 to the board with a #4-40 steel bolt, insulator washer (be sure the stepped side is against the TIP120 tab), lock washer and nut (with heat sink compound between the transistor and heat sink and heat sink and board). You may want to put a dab of fingernail polish or something similar on the screw/nut interface to help prevent them backing off due to vibration. Alternately, you can use a nylon bolt without a insulating washer. The nut should be on the top side, to provide clearance in the case. Solder the MJE2955 pins 1&2 from the bottom side of the board PIN 3 FROM THE TOP.

    

2. Install and solder the 1.0K Ohm, 1/8 Watt base resistors {brown-black-red, 1.0KEBK-ND} in R1, R2, R3, R4 R5, R6.

   Install and solder the 1.0K Ohm, 1/8 Watt base resistors {brown-black-red, 1.0KEBK-ND} in R19 along with a link from the cpu end of R19 to the bottom of R7.

   Install and solder a 330R resistor between the top of R7 and ampseal side of D22 along with  a 10K resistor from the top of R7 and the top of D14

   Install and solder a small NPN transistor normally {ZTX450-ND, do not confuse with the 2N3904 transistors that look very similar} in Q12. These transistors have one flat side with square corners, and one side with rounded corners (this side is marked "ZTX 450"); the flat side with the square corners faces the Ampseal end of the PCB. The pin spacing is very tight on these transistors, be careful not to bridge the pins with solder (use a braided copper wick to remove any excess, if necessary).

    

3. Install and solder jumpers on R9, R10, R11, and R12 using snipped off leads. (You can install 0.1 Ohm resistors (not included), such as Digi-Key MPR3-0.1J-ND at 79¢ each, in these positions if you wish to use an oscilloscope to view the output currents.)

4. Install and solder the 30V Zener diodes {1N4751ADICT-ND} in D8, D9, D10, D11, D12, and diodes {1N4001} in D13. The banded end goes towards the heat sink, as shown on the silkscreen.
   

   Positive is:
   Capacitors:	LEDs:	Diodes:
   The longer lead on polarized capacitors (not all are), sometimes marked with a small +	The longer lead on LEDs, and the lead opposite the “flat” on the case. If you can see inside the LED, the cathode (which is on the same side the flat would be) is the larger electrode (but this is not an 'official' identification method).	The end FURTHEST from the band (for forward conduction).

This circuit is located near the center of the PCB. It is built as a voltage divider (resistance sensing) circuit.

1. Install and solder a resistor, ¼ Watt, 510 Ohms in R22. Space it off the board by about ¼" (6mm).

2. Install and solder a 1.0K Ohm, 1/8 Watt resistor {brown-black-red, 1.0KEBK-ND} in R33.

3. Install and solder a 1.0µF, 50V capacitor {399-4389-ND} in C16. You may have to straighten the leads somewhat to get them to fit the holes in the board. Do not let C20 touch R24 once assembled, bend it out of the way as necessary.
   
4. Install and solder a 0.001µF, 100V capacitor {399-4202-ND} in C17. Do not let it touch R24.

This circuit is located near the center of the PCB. It is built as a voltage divider (resistance sensing) circuit.

1. Install and solder a resistor, ¼ Watt, 2.49K Ohms {red-yellow-white-brown-brown (on blue),2.49KXBK-ND} in R24. Space it off the board by about ¼" (6mm).

2. Install and solder a 1.0K Ohm, 1/8 Watt resistor {brown-black-red, 1.0KEBK-ND} in R33.

3. Install and solder a 1.0µF, 50V capacitor {399-4389-ND} in C20. You may have to straighten the leads somewhat to get them to fit the holes in the board. Do not let C20 touch R24 once assembled, bend it out of the way as necessary.
   
4. Install and solder a 0.001µF, 100V capacitor {399-4202-ND} in C21. Do not let it touch R24.

This circuit is located behind the center of the Ampseal connector. It is built as a voltage divider (resistance sensing) circuit.

1. Install and solder a resistor ¼ Watt, 1.9K Ohms (2K0 is closest) in R23.

2. Install and solder a 1.0K Ohm, 1/8 Watt resistor {brown-black-red, 1.0KEBK-ND} in R32.

3. Install and solder a 1.0µF, 50V capacitor {399-4389-ND} in C18. You may have to straighten the leads somewhat to get them to fit the holes in the board. Do not let C18 touch R23 once assembled, bend it out of the way as necessary.
   
4. Install and solder a 0.001µF, 100V capacitor {399-4202-ND} in C19. Do not let it touch R23.

GPI1 (Ignition sense): The input for this connection is paired with the 12v supply at ampseal pin1

This circuit is located behind the center of the Ampseal connector. It is built as a digital input (Voltage sensing) circuit.

1. Install and solder a 10K Ohm resistor 1/8 Watt, 10K Ohms in R28.

2. Install and solder a 15K Ohm, 1/8 Watt resistor in R27.

3. Install and solder a 5.6V Zener diode {1N4734ADICT-ND} in C14 with stripe toward heat sink.

This connection is not used in the ordinary 928 Implemetation

GPI5 (Accessory sense):

This circuit is located behind the center of the Ampseal connector. It is built as a digital input (Voltage sensing) circuit.

1. Install and solder a 10K Ohm resistor 1/8 Watt, 10K Ohms in R36.

2. Install and solder a 15K Ohm, 1/8 Watt resistor in R35.

3. Install and solder a 5.6V Zener diode {1N4734ADICT-ND} in C22 with stripe facing away from heat sink.

These circuits are located on the edge of the PCB furthest from the heat sink.

1. Install and solder Toshiba TA8050P with pin7 bent at 90 degrees to the rear in pins 1-6 of U8 .

2. Underneath install and solder jumper (made from insulated wire) between pin3 of U8 and ampseal 22

3. Underneath install and solder jumper (made from insulated wire) between pin5 of U8 and ampseal 21

4. Underneath install and solder jumper (made from insulated wire) between pin2 of U8 and PB4

5. Underneath install and solder jumper (made from insulated wire) between pin1 of U8 and PT7

6. above install and solder jumper (made from snipped lead) between the bent out pin7 of the TA8050P and pin11 of U8

7. Install and solder 10uf electrolytic between pin11 and pin13 of U8

There appear to be two types of CLIMAtronic controller one with a deep translucent rear case and one short and black. The one we want is the translucent case part # 3B1 907 044 B made by Hella.

This circuit is located below the centre of the board. It is built as a digital input (with a pull-down).

1. Install and solder a 10.0K Ohm, SIP resistor array A103G across the inputs AD6:3 and ground. the #1 pin at the dot end is ground. I found this easiest to do on the back of the display board

   

    

2. solder the leads from the display as per the following

   yellow - data leads direct to the cpu points on the 25x2 header (i.e pin 2 to AD3, pin 9 to PM7 etc.)

   blue - voltage and sense leads to (I used U7 on EGT4  on the board as it has +5v +12v and Gnd etc.

   AD3	AD4	PM2	AD5		AD6	AD7	5v
   2	4	6	8	10	12	14	16
   1	3	5	7	9	11	13	15
   		PM4	PM5	PM3	12v	egt4 58d-	Gnd

    

3. Underneath install and solder jumper (made from insulated wire) between ampseal side of R78 and ampseal side of R24

Modified High side circuits and head/motor controllers

The modifications allow digital control of the servo while still allowing reversal to original operation

1. GPIO Leads as per the below photo

   

I. Vehicle connection and Finishing Touches

There are few more things to do before your board is finished and ready for use:

1. Fit: Check the fit of the completed board in the case. Make sure that none of the TIP120 tabs contact the case. If they do, reposition them as required.

2. Clean: This is a good time to clean the excess flux from the board. A common problem with boards that were working and quit for no apparent reason is flux residue. Remove the processor. Wash your board with:
   • 99% isopropyl alcohol (isopropyl alcohol is also known as "rubbing alcohol", and any drugstore will have it. Don't use the 70% isopropyl alcohol, it is much less effective), or
   • acetone.
   Lightly scrub both sides of the PCB with an old toothbrush. When cleaning flux, it is sometimes impossible to wash it all off, some of it has to be scraped lightly to remove it. Use a round toothpick or wooden match broken in half for scraping the tough parts. This gives a small pointy end and large end to work with and reduces the chance of damaging the PCB. Be very careful not to damage the silk screen or traces. Rinse the PCB in hot water, then allow the PCB to dry completely. There should be very little haze left once it dries. Compressed air can speed the drying process, but be aware that some of the commercial compressed air cans have a solvent that can saturate any remaining flux and cause problems.

   If there is still haze on the board after drying, or a white residue on any of the solder joints, you should rewash the board until these are completely eliminated. Note that because of the tight spacing of some of the SMD pins, the washing/drying is more critical on the GPIO board than it was on the V3 main board, for example.

3. Test: Once the board is assembled and installed, you can test each circuit to be sure the signals are appropriate. For example, before installing the jumper for AD7/GPI4 (on the 25x2 header), look for an appropriate brake signal on the pin closest the Ampseal connector. The signal must be above ~3.25 V (but not more than 5.6V) to be 'high' and below about 1.75 Volts to be 'low'. Generally, you want to check each circuit that has the potential to have more than 5 Volts on it. If you are not sure, ask on the MShift™/GPIO forums.

4. Sealing: If you want to seal the finished board, use a conformal coating. Wait until you have cleaned and tested the board thoroughly though. If you do not think you will be doing much repair work on the board, you can not beat silicone conformal coating. It does require some digging to get it off for repair, however. Avoid the urethane coatings, as they are considered permanent and are a pain to try to work through.

   You can also buy a spray can of acrylic lacquer conformal coating at most local electronics suppliers for around $10. If you are going to be working the board, “Krylon Krystal” clear spray works very well. Several coatings, preferably baked at 175-200°F degrees in between. This should slow down or prevent "solder bloom" and other deterioration of the PCB. Condensation is a fact of life for an outdoor component undergoing temperature changes. If needed, you can solder right through the Krylon Krystal and the residue cleans well with pure grain alcohol.

    

5. Now that you have assembled the base circuits on your GPIO, you need to load the MClima™ code (loadable code files and instructions are listed here: Code Versions). Completing this step will verify that CPU and serial communications circuits are functioning.
6. Use the tables and remaining parameters to get the CLIMAtronic to function how you prefer.
7. Vehicle Connections

       There are two main connections to the vehicle body harness. A 4 pin and a 6 pin version of this connector

   

   4 pin				6 pin
   	car	unit			car	unit
   1	12 v from blower relay	VB4 (35)		1	Power - Ignition	+12v (1) add pin5
   2	AC Compressor feed	VB3 (23)		2	Ground
   3	Outside Temp	GPI5 or CAN		3	Illum
   4	Outside Temp	ground		4	Blower Relay	GPO1 (10)
   				5	Defrost Relay	GPO3 (8)
   				6	Engine Temp Sensor

    

    

8.